Showing posts with label animal advice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label animal advice. Show all posts

Thursday, July 3, 2014

Tips on Pets and Fireworks (A less than ideal combination)


"No, not fireworks!" Says Socko

Happy Fourth of July!


While we are out enjoying the independence this nation holds dear, please remember that our pets are often affected in a negative manner by fireworks. Even when we can't hear the BOOMS, they can. Also, the pressure can be felt in the air and they have no words to tell us how they feel. This can result in unusual behaviors including, but not limited to, the pet hiding, panting, running around, huddling close to the people they love and/or being more aggressive than usual.


Here are a few things we can do for our companions:


    That's a good place to hide, Nemi!
  • Be patient and calm but do not make a fuss. If your animal sees that you aren't reacting to the noise and the pressure, it will encourage them not to be freaked out either.
  • If your pet finds a hiding place, leave them be. Sometimes the best thing they can do is wait it out.
  • A bit of soothing music or white noise can help calm their fears and drown the other sounds out. 
  • Don't leave them alone for too long. This will only add to their stress. 
  • If your pet wears a thunder shirt or anxiety wrap during storms, put it on them during the fireworks. 
  • Keep your pets inside. 
  • If you have to take your dog outside, be sure they are on a leash. Even if you do not  leave your yard, that extra bit of security to keep them safe in case they get startled could save your dog from running off. 
  • If they can be distracted, get them to focus on something they enjoy. (I.e. a game of fetch, a kong with yummies inside, some lettuce, chasing a feather wand, etc.) There's less room for fear if their minds are engaged elsewhere.

Lettuce distract Piglet!


What do you do to help your pets during the Fourth of July or other scary times? 
Please share your tips in the comments! 
Thanks!


ADDITION
A friend of mine pointed out this very helpful article that takes things a step further. With a bit of work, you can train your pets out of their fearful response. 
Here, she explains it better:



Thursday, June 12, 2014

Why I, as a Professional Dog Walker, Refuse to Use Retractable Leashes

I have been a professional dog walker for over three years. In that time, I have taken at least 5,000 walks (probably more) with a variety of breeds. Before my dog walking career, I was a Humane Educator, an Intake Counselor, an Adoption Counselor and an Animal Care Technician at a local animal shelter. The stories I heard there combined with my own research and my experiences have all led me to not trust retractable leashes. This is why I, as a professional dog walker, will always bring along at least two standard leashes in order to avoid ever having to use a retractable leash. 

Below are the details of why I will not use a retractable leash.





The Handle 

This is the portion of the leash with which I have the most problems. I walk lots of dogs, one right after the other, in all sorts of weather. This means I'm sometimes wearing gloves, my hands get sweaty, I'm often covered in dog slobber, I have many keys to deal with, I might be walking two or three dogs at a time, I have to pick up poop, etc, etc, etc. 

The hand that's holding the retractable leash cannot do much more than hold the leash. With a regular leash, I can loop the end around my wrist and still use my hand knowing that the dog is secured. With a retractable, if I need to use that hand for any reason, I have to put the handle of the leash down or shove it insecurely under my arm or in a pocket. Either of those options are tempting fate. (And by "fate", I'm referring to the distractible nature of dogs. Oh look! A squirrel!) 

The handle can be difficult to hold. If it gets wet from sweat, slobber or rain, that plastic becomes slippery. If I'm wearing gloves, my grip is not going to be as secure on the plastic as it is when I have a nylon leash.  If the dog starts pulling, I don't have as strong of a hold on that big hunk of plastic as I do with  a regular leash that I can wrap around my hand, something you do not want to do with a retractable leash. 

The handle, if dropped, can frighten the dog. That plastic can make a loud sound on concrete or brick. It is probably not going to be very loud if it lands on grass, but it might thump against a tree or something and startle the pup. On one of my walks, I actually saw this following scenario happen:
A small older lady was bent over picking up poop when her Silky Terrier spotted me coming with the Shiba Inu I was walking. The Silky got overly excited and lunged towards us. The woman almost fell over and dropped the leash. The sound of the plastic hitting the pavement scared the Silky. She ran off getting more and more upset as the leash bounced after her. We were, fortunately, on a street that had little traffic. I was able to grab the leash as the Silky ran past and returned her to the woman who was in a panic. This whole scenario could have ended much worse. 

The Retraction Button

The problem I have with the button is that it does not always work and, when it does, it is a pain to regulate. I understand that the idea behind the Retractable Leash is that it gives the dog the opportunity to roam. I am all for a dog being able to run around and roam while in a yard or at a dog park but not while on a walk. On the rare occasions when I have had to use a retractable leash, I locked the leash at a certain length so that the pup would not end up in traffic or under a bush with who knows what other critters.

Unfortunately, locking it can cause another problem. With it locked, the leash is slack and if the dog comes back towards me, s/he can then wrap it around me. I have been fortunate and have not received an injury from a leash wrap. Others have not been so lucky and have sustained rope burns, lacerations and even amputations. (Please refer to the articles I have linked below.*)

Another problem occurs when the button fails to work. This can be the fault of the manufacturer, the walker's finger either not compressing the button hard enough or slipping off of it or just a matter of regular wear and tear. Unlike the wear and tear on a standard leash, the mechanism for the button is in the plastic casing so it is not possible to see when it's getting worn down. No matter where the fault lies, the end result can be devastating. When I worked at the shelter, I heard different tales in which dogs got injured, and in one case died, because the button failed to work. In one of the stories, two dogs got into a fight when the walkers thought they were far enough away from each other but the dog on the retractable leash managed to snap the button and suddenly had a lot more leash to work with. Another owner had tried to lock the leash as the dog ran after a squirrel. The leash just kept spooling out despite the lock button being pressed and the dog was hit by a car and died as his owner watched not five feet away still holding that leash.

The Leash Itself

As I mentioned earlier, the leash wrapping around you can lead to rope burns, lacerations and amputations. Retractable Leashes will often have this warning, or something similar, on the plastic casing:


This, by itself, makes me not want to use that leash. The unfortunate thing is, since they put this warning on the leash, the manufacturer can say that you're at fault because your dog was uncontrollable. But even the best dogs, like people, have bad days and bad things happen. I will always do my best to minimize the potential for things going wrong. If that means I have to carry around extra leashes, then I carry around extra leashes.



I am around more dogs and more dog situations than most people and that is why I wrote this. I feel that everyone should be informed about the hazards of retractable leashes. I am including *four articles that explain the hazards of using retractable leashes:






Tuesday, July 23, 2013

Kitten Season!

Did you know kittens have a season? 
While it is not a true season, it is the time of year that the majority of kittens are born.

Cosette
Biker Bunch Foster Kittens
It usually runs between mid to late spring and early to mid fall. I observed this first hand when I was working full time at the shelter. When I started in the winter, there were not many kittens there. But by early summer, the kitten room was overflowing into the lobby, there were kittens in almost all the foster homes and our intake room seemed to be bursting.

Female cats (or queens) are polyestrous, meaning they have several heat cycles in a year. While this means  they can have kittens any time of the year, they do not go into heat when the temperature is too cold. But weather fluctuates and there are exceptions to kitten season.
Pedro
Carmilla, Selene & St. Germaine


A little over two months after a warm snap in the middle of the winter during the second year I was working at the shelter, we had an influx of kittens being brought in. One with a frost bitten tail that half came off and another with frost bitten ears that lost their tips. Sadly, some of them did not make it.


Link
Since my bestie and I foster for a shelter, my house has seen many kittens coming through during kitten season. While they're adorable and exciting to have around, they're also a lot of work. Along with growing and socializing, they often need medications, have behavioral issues to work on, are messy, get into trouble and frequently manage to escape from whatever room they're in. The most heartbreaking part of fostering is when one of our little ones die.
Mugsy

Many times, when kittens are brought in without their mama, they are too young to be weened. Bottle feeding does not build their immune system like mama's milk does and they quite easily become sick and sometimes die. Some who come in with the mama have trouble adjusting to the new environment. Others, are just not strong enough.

This is why getting cats spayed and neutered is so very important. Many shelters and vets will have times when the offer special rates on spaying and neutering pets. I support organizations like Triple R Pets that have TNR (Trap Neuter and Return) programs to help keep the feral cat population from continuing to grow.

Foster Kittens in a basket!
   
Reference links:

     What to do and not do if you find a newborn kitten
     Cats in heat

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Preparing the Kitty for Moving

One of our clients is soon to be moving with their cat. They asked me for advice about what they should do to prepare their kitty for the move and what type of cat carrier I would recommend for a cat who is not fond of travel. So, along with a link to the ASPCA's Car Travel Tips, this is what I suggested.

I would highly recommend a carrier that has a top door and to get one bigger than what the cat needs so there is space to move around. Have the carrier out in the house and open for a few days (weeks if possible) before the move. That way when the day of the trip arrives, the kitty won't run and hide as soon as it comes out. The reason for leaving it open is so that kitty can leisurely investigate it. Put some treats or food in there so there will be a nice yummy surprise which will give the carrier positive association. Also, put comfy blankets or a kitty bed that the kitty already uses in there. That way it smells like the kitty and it is available for a nap which will add more positive association with the carrier. 

During the time the carrier is just sitting out, check it frequently to make sure kitty hasn't left any "presents" in it. If there is pee or poop in it, clean all of the smell out of it. (Most cats won't, this is just a precaution.) 

On the day of the move, the kitty will sense the nervous anxiety that moving often brings with it. Try to stay as calm and upbeat as possible with kitty. If kitty likes to play, I suggest playing with kitty for as long as possible before the kitty goes in the carrier. A tired kitty will always be easier to move. Doing it the day of the move may not be possible, but even a good play session the evening before will be helpful.